Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 8:45 am Post subject: Settings
Hey all, just wondering who has the Greedy Spec 2 Type B EBC on their Aristo and if they could tell me what their 3 settings are on Hi mode.....
(Lo mode i have just left as stock settings as per manual but when i wanna line up against somebody and smoke them, i change to Hi Mode but im getting boost spike im pretty sure)
Im so slack and cant really get my head around it.
* I have read on many sites who to do it etc & that it can take from 30mins - 45mins to a whole day to get it right.
My beast is practically stock and would like to know what other people have their EBC settings on & if they could share this with me so i can just set it up without mucking around?
Start Boost/Set Gain :
Gain :
Set :
I think thats the 3 setting i need...
Much help on your setting is much Appreciated thanks. _________________
95 Aristo 3.0V GTE
JDM - Series 1
Black wit Blue LEDs, Monza FMIC, Greedy EBC, TurboSmart MBC, Bov,
OBX-R TOMCAT Aftermarket Shifter,
Air Intake system + Pod, Blue silicone hosing all round & Saas boost gauge.
18inch HKS racing Chrome rims.
L.E.D day running lights installed which give my ride that extra mean look : Grrrr
Joined: 10 Apr 2011 Posts: 161 Location: Brisbane, Australia
Posted: Thu May 17, 2012 6:37 pm Post subject:
Haha what a co-incidence that this thread pops up, I just ordered another Profec B earlier this week for my other car and I expect to receive it in the post tomorrow.
With the settings I use just leave Low settings all as they are out of the box, it is like having the actuator connected directly to the boost reference. Ie no boost controller/spring pressure.
Hi settings on mine are...
Set: 53%
Gain: 10
Set Gain: 0
And that results in a rock solid 15.1 to 15.3 PSI all day every day. See my sig for my cars setup.
I stole this following information from a Mitsubishi Evo forum when I bought my first Profec B years ago and found it to be very good information to help get your head around how they work.
General Overview:
Quote:
SET: (eg 68% = this value is a percentage)
0% = Profec B is essentially OFF and you are running from the wastegate spring, what ever that is.
100% = Boost will go as high as your turbo/setup will possibly go.
SET GAIN: (eg 140 which = 14 psi)
The wastegate will stay shut until this value is reached, set it as close as possible to the SET value (desired boost) as you can without causing the boost to spike.
GAIN: (eg 5% = this value is a percentage)
Increase this value slowly if the boost drops off from the SET value as the revs increase toward redline/max power.
WARNING: (eg 150 which = 15 psi)
This is the maximum boost that you don't want to exceed, generally set it to 1 psi above the SET value (desired boost)
LIMITER: (eg 4% = this value is a percentage, 4% is a good number to start with)
This is the percentage that the SET value (desired boost) is reduced by when the WARNING value is reached.
SETUP IN A NUTSHELL:
SET is a % of your stock actuator e.g if you take switch off the spec2 and you get only 12psi of boost setting it to 68% will give you 20.16psi e.g (12 x 1.6
SET GAIN this allows the wastegate to be shut until that value is met e.g if you used 19psi at your set gain your actuator should only open at the value... Tip if you want a little spike to help you reach that red line faster adjust it higher than the set value.
GAIN gain is used when you have your boost set at 20psi and at 5500 rpm it seems that it drops to 17psi even though greddy claims this works I have not been able to do so, to fix this I am going to add a spring to my already preloaded wastegate actuator rod.
WARNING AND LOWERING should be self explanatory if you want your maximum boost to be 24 psi and you creeping to 28psi take the max value for the warning and multiple by the amount you want it lowered to e.g lets use 15% here(.85 x 28psi)= 23.8psi
ACCURACY:
Actual (left) is a calibrated pressure gauge, indicated (right)
is the readout of the profec B. Readings are accurate within
+- .05 PSIG at worst. DUT was powered with 12V.
Conclusion: Its pretty accurate even after dealing with all the heat/stress.
I would say trust the profec b before you trust any mechanical boost gauge.
Detailed Tuning Instructions:
Quote:
How To Tune Your Greddy Profec B spec II
updated 9/1/4
Before you begin, you should have an idea of what you're aiming for. For EVOs, 19psi (131 kPa) seems to be a safe setting based on what people on the forums have found since it is close to what the stock boost pressure is, yet there is an increase in power due to the Greddy unit keeping the boost close to 19psi while the stock boost tapers off as the RPMs increase. I will henceforth refer to what you're aiming for as "desired boost pressure".
Definitions and things you need to know before you start:
SET This is how you set the boost pressure. Rather than setting it in psi or kPa, the Greddy unit allows you to adjust it as a percentage value, from 0% (greddy unit essentially turned off) to 100% (greddy unit will set the boost as high as it can). This setup demands a certain amount of trial-and-error to properly configure it since you have to make adjustments, then drive under WOT (Wide Open Throttle) and see what the maximum boost pressure achieved was throughout the entire RPM range. SET SHOULD BE SET TO A CONSERVATIVE VALUE WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT. 30% SEEMS TO BE A CONSERVATIVE SETTING BASED ON MY TESTING AND BASED ON OTHER REPORTED NUMBERS FROM EVO OWNERS AND TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION THE LINK BETWEEN SET AND GAIN (see GAIN below).
GAIN is defined in the manual as the value to adjust the "boost consistency". You don't really need to know exactly what that means. You should set GAIN to 0 when beginning, and you will then test the car under WOT while paying attention to the boost pressure. If the boost goes up and then falls off at higher RPM, you will want to increase the GAIN by a conservative amount (5% should be relatively conservative to begin with, then when you want to fine-tune it, you can go down to intervals of 1%). When you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. GAIN SHOULD BE SET TO 0 WHEN BEGINNING TO TUNE YOUR GREDDY UNIT.
START BOOST (also known as SET GAIN because that is what is displayed on the unit when adjusting this setting) is the lowest boost that the Greddy unit will begin increasing the boost from under WOT. You want this to be as close to the SET value as possible, since you want to keep as close to your desired boost as possible. However, setting it too close to the SET value will cause the boost to spike. You should set this to a conservative setting when beginning to tune your Greddy unit. Then you can fine-tune it later to get it as close to the SET value as possible without causing the boost to spike. Fortunately, you can set this in psi or kPa, thankfully Greddy didn't decide to let this be adjustable in % like the SET value. START BOOST SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE MINUS 4 PSI (about 28 kPa).
WARNING is the maximum boost that you do not want to exceed. Fortunately, you can also set this in psi or kPa like the START BOOST value. When the boost exceeds the WARNING level, it will kick in the LIMITER, which decreases the boost a certain amount that you can set. WARNING SHOULD BE SET TO YOUR DESIRED BOOST PRESSURE PLUS 1 PSI (about 7 kPa).
LIMITER is the boost percentage that the Greddy unit will lower by when the WARNING boost pressure is hit. LIMITER SHOULD BE SET TO 4%.
PEAK is the peak boost value that the unit has seen since the last time it was cleared. To clear it, go to the peak boost display, and hold down the set knob until the unit beeps and "---" is displayed. IT IS A GOOD IDEA TO CLEAR THIS BEFORE YOU BEGIN JUST IN CASE YOUR UNIT HAS A HIGH BOOST ALREADY RECORDED.
LAST BOOST shows you the last boost that was recorded every time the accelerator is released for 3 seconds. TURN LAST BOOST ON BECAUSE IT IS A GOOD DIAGNOSTIC TOOL WHEN TUNING YOUR UNIT.
Keep in mind that when displaying in kPa, it does not show it technically in kPa, but rather misleadingly in bars, which Greddy inconveniently tries to justify by sticking x100 kPa next to the display. Therefore, 100 kPa will be displayed as 1.00 x100 kPa. Psi will also unfortunately be displayed in psi x10 so that 19 psi will show as 190, adding to the confusion.
Another very important thing to keep in mind is that when you first power on your car or the Greddy unit, WARNING will be set to 14.5 psi (100kPa, or 1 bar) until you interact with the Greddy unit by pressing any button. This "feature" is not documented in the manual.
Also keep in mind that atmospheric conditions affect the operation of your boost controller. When it is hot, you will get different results than when it is cold. One possible way of solving this issue is tuning your Greddy unit under the "Lo" mode for when it is relatively cold, and under the "High" mode for when it is relatively hot. Unfortunately, two modes are hardly enough for somebody that needs to account for very different summer and winter climates, and also for more aggressive settings for when increased performance is desired.
The maximum boost that you will see is also not consistent throughout the gears, which adds even more to the confusion. Unfortunately, if you've already increased your start boost to the maximum setting that doesn't give you surging, then there seems to be no way to get around this variance in boost pressure from low to high gears. I don't know if this is a limitation of the greddy unit specifically, or if it's something inherent to electronic boost controllers in general. The only two things that you can do to compensate is the following:
1. Set it to the "safest" of the settings that does not trip your limiter. To do this, tune the unit to your desired boost pressure in fifth gear.
2. Tune the "Lo" and "Hi" settings corresponding to having the boost maximized during the low gears and during the high gears. This would require you to manually hit the button to switch to the "Hi" setting when you shift to third gear or whatever you started tuning your "Hi" setting at. This is why Greddy makes the wireless remote switch that straps to your steering wheel to switch between "Hi" and "Lo" settings.
The following steps should be taken in exactly this order, taking into consideration all of the previous information:
1. Change boost pressure units to psi if so desired (see manual).
2. Set WARNING to your desired boost pressure plus 1 psi (about 7 kPa) (see above).
3. Set START BOOST (SET GAIN) to your desired boost pressure minus 4 psi (about 28 kPa)(see above).
4. Clear PEAK boost value (see above).
5. Set LAST BOOST to ON (see above).
6. Set GAIN to 0 (see above).
7. Set SET to 30% (see above).
8. Set LIMITER to SET minus 4% (26% if you followed #7).
9. Test for boost falloff at high rpm. You should probably do this in a wide open area with no other cars nearby and preferably no cops. It is also good to have somebody in the car with you that can watch the gauge while you concentrate on not wrecking your car. If there is no boost falloff, then go to #10. If there is boost falloff, then increase the GAIN by 5% and test again. Keep in mind that when you increase the GAIN value, the corresponding boost that you will go up to will be higher even if you leave the SET value alone. Repeat until the boost pressure does not decrease, or until you feel surging. If you feel surging and the boost pressure still decreases (not sure if this is possible) then decrease to the last level that you did not feel surging at.
10. Increase SET by 2% and adjust LIMITER accordingly, then test again. Keep increasing by 2% until desired boost level is obtained.
11. Increase START BOOST (SET GAIN) by 1 increment and test until surging is felt or the WARNING level is hit and the display turns red, then decrease to the previous setting.
Once you have followed these steps, you will have roughly tuned your unit. To fine-tune it, repeat steps 9 and 10 except this time only increase or decrease by 1 increment.
Thank you soooo much Malakai, your a champ!! I also have a
MBC on my first turbs, so I have set that on 12psi. Now I will
have some kick when I line up against some body foolish enough
to take me on. Mwahhahahaha (evil laugh)
I left the Lo settings like you said so its like stock practically plus I have
that ETTC Mod but I rarely use that unless in city driving plus saves saves
on fuel a bit.
Next thing I need is FCD/aftermarket ECU but when I can get enough coin. Lol
Thanks again heaps mate. I'll dial the settings you advised me in the morning
and see how it drives tomorrow. I can't wait to give it a bit. Hehehe
Thanks a million again mate, much appreciated. _________________
95 Aristo 3.0V GTE
JDM - Series 1
Black wit Blue LEDs, Monza FMIC, Greedy EBC, TurboSmart MBC, Bov,
OBX-R TOMCAT Aftermarket Shifter,
Air Intake system + Pod, Blue silicone hosing all round & Saas boost gauge.
18inch HKS racing Chrome rims.
L.E.D day running lights installed which give my ride that extra mean look : Grrrr
Hey, I have changed my settings and it felt alot better than when i was mucking around with it, still getting a bit of a cut of some kind? (not as much as before though)
I cant really tell the difference between Fuel cut, Surge or Boost Spiking though.....
(Or are they the same kinda?) lol
Not 100% sure what i need to change slightly if its the SET or Set Gain....
Another thing is my LIMITER on the EBC only goes to 20, is that right?
(What should i have this setting on?)
On way home after work today i will make a few slight turns on one and see how that goes. if the same result, will do the opposite and again see how that goes. _________________
95 Aristo 3.0V GTE
JDM - Series 1
Black wit Blue LEDs, Monza FMIC, Greedy EBC, TurboSmart MBC, Bov,
OBX-R TOMCAT Aftermarket Shifter,
Air Intake system + Pod, Blue silicone hosing all round & Saas boost gauge.
18inch HKS racing Chrome rims.
L.E.D day running lights installed which give my ride that extra mean look : Grrrr
Joined: 09 May 2007 Posts: 54 Location: Melbourne -Southland/Cheltenham-
Posted: Fri May 18, 2012 9:21 am Post subject:
Things like a FMIC and bigger exhaust will affect the settings you need. Be careful just copying someone else settings without slowly working up to the levels otherwise you may get some over boosting issues.
Cheers heaps for looking out linxus40, Most Appreciated.
Yeah i just wanted a rough idea atleast.
As when i was trying i was just way off, so now its a bit better and now i can slowly adjust what i need to get it just right
Just trial & error now to fine tune it. _________________
95 Aristo 3.0V GTE
JDM - Series 1
Black wit Blue LEDs, Monza FMIC, Greedy EBC, TurboSmart MBC, Bov,
OBX-R TOMCAT Aftermarket Shifter,
Air Intake system + Pod, Blue silicone hosing all round & Saas boost gauge.
18inch HKS racing Chrome rims.
L.E.D day running lights installed which give my ride that extra mean look : Grrrr
Things like a FMIC and bigger exhaust will affect the settings you need. Be careful just copying someone else settings without slowly working up to the levels otherwise you may get some over boosting issues.
Cheers,
Hey also mate, what is the best thing to touch in regards to the EBC settings?
Gain or SET gain?
(I think im getting slight surge of power....)
- feels like it struggles when at higher boost...if that makes sense.
I have left the boost Psi as is (15psi) _________________
95 Aristo 3.0V GTE
JDM - Series 1
Black wit Blue LEDs, Monza FMIC, Greedy EBC, TurboSmart MBC, Bov,
OBX-R TOMCAT Aftermarket Shifter,
Air Intake system + Pod, Blue silicone hosing all round & Saas boost gauge.
18inch HKS racing Chrome rims.
L.E.D day running lights installed which give my ride that extra mean look : Grrrr
Joined: 09 May 2007 Posts: 54 Location: Melbourne -Southland/Cheltenham-
Posted: Mon May 21, 2012 1:08 pm Post subject:
I haven't touched mine in about 3 years. Couldn't tell you what but I did a ton of WOT runs on a nice empty patch of road until I found the best levels.
Found a doco similar to the one posted a few posts above and slowly worked it up.
I haven't touched mine in about 3 years. Couldn't tell you what but I did a ton of WOT runs on a nice empty patch of road until I found the best levels.
Found a doco similar to the one posted a few posts above and slowly worked it up.
Cheers,
Cheers buddy, yeah im sill trying to suss mine out, as you said,....i just gotta take it out to open road & WOT to test and re-test until tune right. ill get their eventually.
In question which is better to touch if boost spiking/surging....
(Set Gain or Gain....
Cheers heaps though. _________________
95 Aristo 3.0V GTE
JDM - Series 1
Black wit Blue LEDs, Monza FMIC, Greedy EBC, TurboSmart MBC, Bov,
OBX-R TOMCAT Aftermarket Shifter,
Air Intake system + Pod, Blue silicone hosing all round & Saas boost gauge.
18inch HKS racing Chrome rims.
L.E.D day running lights installed which give my ride that extra mean look : Grrrr
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I can't wait to give it a bit. Hehehe
Most Appreciated.
